We have not had any problems since this was done over a year ago.
We had one light replaced with a LED and they replaced the rubber plugs that go around the power cable in the lights nook which prevents water getting into the conduit. There are just some things that a qualified contractor should be performing. Connected to low voltage circuit however lights not turning on. WHO in their right mind would buy that thinking it was low-voltage???? I am perfectly comfortable putting a 12v 9 watt LED bulb into a housing designed for replaceable 120V 500 watt incandescents and using a 75 watt isolation transformer to feed it low voltage power. We use data about you for a number of purposes explained in the links below.
The GFCI protection on 120V pool lights and outlets in your bathroom and kitchen are designed to remove power when 5 milliamps of current are flowing somewhere they should not. Long and short, as temperature increases(current flowing through wire when lamp is on) resistance decreases.
PVC is very flexible. The NEC is written that way for a reason. Your cable problem seems to be a splice somewhere in the conduit that has failed. They are a needless danger and a relic. Im looking for direction on the following. I don't know if the cable is damaged but I'm pretty certain the conduit is.
Fixture says 60w per bulb and mine was a only 6w with total of 18 watts per post light.
What makes you certain the conduit is cracked? What does the conduit have to do with the light? Pvc is easy to cut and repair especially if you heat it up a bit.
After a few minutes the old and worn out insulation becomes more susceptible to alow current to flow from the Ungrounded conductor(Hot wire) to anywhere with a path of minimal resistance to ground(conduit full of water etc..). It's the current that kills, not the voltage. Sure it will work but it will void the warranty and the listing. It doesn't take much for a GFCI to trip, typically just a few milliamps.
Hi, I am a newbie to this forum so please pardon my newbie inexperience here. I think it should do. Bought 12 volt 6watt candalebra bulbs that fitted perfectly.
I asked if using a bi-pin adapter was possible before but the question is now moot since I discovered 12V pool bulbs use edison screws. We had water getting into the junction box for our lights which was tripping the GFCI. I want the inherent safety not just for my family but for whoever lives here 30 years from now. it's Malibu 600W transformer with about 150 feet of 12 gage wire with the total of 340W of load.
I am perfectly comfortable putting a 12v 9 watt LED bulb into a housing designed for replaceable 120V 500 watt incandescents and using a 75 watt isolation transformer to feed it low voltage power. It looks like earthquake damage it's so bad. I don't want to power it thru an inverter.
It is a much big job to run 120V. Untill you dig it up and find the splice it is any guess as th where it is and how they did it. I bought traditional post light (120 volt) with three lights on one post (have 2 posts).
The pool light cord runs continuously from the light to the junction box and IS watertight.Damaged conduit is not a good thing because you are likely losing pool water through that cracked portion. That is why I am replacing my pool light (not my defective spa light--yet) bulb with a 12V bulb and sending 12V to the J-box via a transformer. Not only am I comfortable with it, but I am highly uncomfortable leaving my fully functioning 120V pool light … And I expect to see them make 120V pool lights illegal in the coming decades. They also sealed the junction box cover with silicon caulk. J. jjpaul New Member. The other failure point can be in the wiring but it is rare as the cable assembly is rated for underwater use. I have stayed out of this one untill now. What in the world gave yo....... um, him that idea??? It's the current that kills, not the voltage. I am converting my pool light from its original 110 volt to 12 volt system.